Walking New Zealand’s Milford Track

The Milford Track is located in the southern region of New Zealand’s South Island. With around 14,000 people walking it every year, it’s one of the most popular tracks in the world.

My wife Linda and I had the opportunity to walk this iconic track twice. The second time, my wife’s two sisters Donna and Tracey came along, plus another friend Leanne. This was their first long-distance walk.

Length of the Track

The track starts at the headwaters of Lake Te Anau and finishes at Sandfly Point on Milford Sound. It is 53.3 kilometres long and takes 4 days to complete. You can either walk with a tour group or do it independently. Huts are provided by the Department Of Conservation (commonly called DOC) and are located a day’s walk apart. Camping is not allowed on the track – you must stay in the DOC huts.

The sign pointing us the beginning of the walk. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Preparation and Gear

It is important you come on this walk properly prepared. Having the right boots that are waterproof and not too small is a must. Also, don’t take a pack that is too big as you are only carrying extra weight. Consider carefully what gear you bring, as unnecessary items just add weight to your pack.

There is no power in the huts, so make sure your camera and any other devices are fully charged before you start. We took one change of clothes (no jeans), plus some extra underwear and socks, a good waterproof jacket with hood, jumper, and hat. Even in summer, it can get cold at night, so a good sleeping bag is required. You will also need a head torch.

Hiking Food

We took a mixture of freeze-dried dinners and packet food. We also took some bread rolls and cured meats (remember, it must be able to be stored unrefrigerated). We also kept some treats for the evenings in the huts.

Starting Off on the Track

The first day you need to catch the fast ferry from the wharf at Te Anau Downs, which takes you to Glade Wharf where the track starts. For the guided walkers it is only about 20 minutes to their hut with hot showers, proper beds, and a cooked meal. We had about a 2-hour hike to our hut called Clinton Hut.

The light penetrating the beech forest.  Photo: Kevin Leslie

Hut Facilities

The huts are comfortable and clean, with bunks and mattresses provided. There is also a kitchen hut with running water, gas stoves, sinks, and a wood heater. There are also flushing toilets and hand basins as well in the toilet block.

Day One

We caught the morning ferry so were in the first group to arrive. This meant we had a good choice of bunks. Bookings have to be made in advance to hike (or as the New Zealanders say ‘tramp’) the Milford Track, and you have to sign in at each hut as you arrive. This way, the hut rangers know if anyone is missing.

We had a relaxing few hours that afternoon with beautiful sunny skies, so we decided to head back a short distance where there was easy access to the river. Here, we braved the snow-fed waters of the Clinton River. It was a very cold, quick, and refreshing dip.

Crossing a bridge along the way with the beautiful scenery around us. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Day Two

The next day, we headed up the valley along the river passing through dense mossy forests that were hemmed in by towering peaks each side. Snow was visible in patches on the tops of some of the peaks.

With 3 metres of rainfall annually, you will probably experience at least one rainy day on the Milford track. This was our rainy day! Although not heavy, it was necessary to put raincoats and pack covers on. However, the dozens of waterfalls that were plummeting down the sides of the mountains made it worthwhile.

The terrain changes regularly along this section. From dense forest to river flats, suspension bridges that cross side creeks, and areas of spectacular landslides. There are shelters along the track at various intervals and we stopped at one for lunch with some of the other walkers. It was a nice spot, except for the hundreds of sandflies. These blood-sucking little pests pounced on any exposed skin, and only the strongest repellent seemed to keep them at bay.

This track is a photographer’s paradise, with lots of opportunities for some great photos. We had regular stops and enjoyed the day’s walk without the need to push hard.

Arriving at Mintaro Hut

Getting to the end of the day, the trail starts climbing as you near Mackinnon Pass. Arriving at Mintaro Hut, which is surrounded by more dense forest, it was good to take our boots off, sit down, and have a hot cuppa.

The atmosphere of the huts was warm and friendly, as we chatted with the other walkers about our day. So far, we were all holding up quite well… but the next day would be the hardest, as we had to go over Mackinnon Pass. At 1154m, this would be our most difficult day!

Onward and Upward

The day started under a thick cover of cloud so we were concerned that we would miss out on the magnificent views from the top of the pass. The track, while not particularly steep, climbs steadily as it zig-zags its way up the side of the pass. Each side of the track, the forest is dense and moist with bright green mosses and ferns through which small birds flutter.

One side of the track the valley dropped down steeply through misty treetops, while the other side the cliffs towered above us. Eventually, we reached the top of the tree line and started climbing through grassy slopes. Luckily for us, the clouds started to part. We were rewarded with views to die for as we looked right back along the valley we had just walked.

The incredible views to be had from the walk. Photo: Kevin Leslie. 

At the top, there is a cairn dedicated to Quinton Mackinnon who cut the trail along the Clinton River in 1888. From here we could see the other side of the pass to where the Arthur River heads out to Milford Sound.

Snow-Capped Mountaintops and Cascading Waterfalls

All around us were snow-capped mountaintops where the melting snow formed hundreds of small waterfalls cascading down the cliff faces. Clouds were being pushed up over the pass with light winds to form long extended streaks of mist interspersed with rays of sunlight. As you sat and looked around you, any aching limbs or sore feet were forgotten. It was just breathtaking.

Amongst this was a couple of Kia. These are native parrots with large curved beaks that are very good at tearing apart things like hiking boots, backpacks, even car windscreen wipers! They are about as big as galahs, and very animated as they hop around looking for any unguarded pack that they can break into. We had to keep an eye on them, as they were pretty determined!

Reaching the Highest Peak

A little further on, you reach the highest part of the track at a day hut – where there is a loo with a view that is unmatched! This is a good spot for lunch, and thank goodness there are also no sandflies. You will rarely find them above the tree line. It is tempting to linger here, but we still had a long descent down to the valley floor, then onto our final night’s stop at Dumpling Hut.

This was the hardest part of the track as you make your way around the side of a deep gully. Then it’s across a bridge and into the tree line again – then down, down, down! There are beautiful spots to stop and rest as you make your way along the cascading creek, but there are also lots of steps, tree roots, and rocks to negotiate. It is better to take your time, as a slip here can be painful.

The amazing scenery from the top of McKinnon pass. Photo: Kevin Leslie

After thinking we would never make it to the bottom, we finally got onto level ground. We were all starting to feel stiff and sore by now. At this point, you can turn off the track and head past the guided walker’s hut and onto Sutherland Falls. Or, as we did, stay on the main track and onto the last stop.

We were among the last to arrive that day, but it was a sunny afternoon so we once again decided to swim. Lots of others in the group were doing the same. No one stayed in for long, but we all felt better after our dip.

The Last Night

That night, everyone in the kitchen hut chatted about their walk and compared experiences. It was a shame that this was our last night. We had been carrying a bladder of wine with us and were rationing it out until now – so we finished it off with the last of our chocolate, and had an enjoyable evening. However, no one was staying up late as we still had 18km to the finish the next day!

Following the Arthur River, we headed off in the morning along the valley floor. As usual, there are lots of opportunities to photograph sections of the river with its beautiful clear waters that have large trout just lazing along with the current. Hugh tree trunks that have been washed down by floods or avalanche are easily seen sitting on the river bottom even though there were some very deep holes.

A snapshot of Dumpling hut along the track. Photo: Kevin Leslie

The valley started to widen along this section, as we were now walking beside Lake Ada. The track wound its way over a mixture of forests and grassy river flats as we made our way to the end. All along the way, there are regular distance markers and now we were counting them down.

Nearing the End

As you approach the end of the track, you find you are slowing your pace to savour the last stretch. All too soon, you see the sign up ahead that says you have finished! Your Milford experience is over. A small, characteristic ferry is there to take you on a short ride to the terminal at Milford Sound. Here you are suddenly thrust into the modern world of people, buses, and civilisation.

But your memory lingers of the last 4 days. Of the thick mossy forests, green ferns, and the snow-capped mountains that tower beside you every day. Of the beautiful clear waters of the Clinton and Arthur Rivers. Of the bird life and the evenings spent in the huts. And of the wonderful experience that is the Milford Track.

What’s your favourite hiking track in Australia or New Zealand?