Adelaide to Everest

Preparing for Base Camp

Fresh off the plane from my latest adventure and, like all good travellers, the wheels were already in motion for my next trip. Having just been inspired by the breathtaking scenery of New Zealand’s South Island, I knew it was time to take the step (well, many steps) to see ‘the beast’ – Mount Everest.

In search of some advice and thoughts on what it may be like trekking to Everest Base Camp, I contacted my cousin, Lauren, who had spent time around the Annapurna Circuit while in Nepal.  Before I knew it, we had decided to team up and plan the trip together.

Now, trekking to Base Camp is not a decision to make lightly. After further reading and research into what was required, we quickly realised this wasn’t going to be a luxurious holiday. However, the draw to see and experience one of the world’s natural wonders overrode any hesitation… and we knew we’d have to be in good shape to make the most of the journey.

Our destination – the incredible Himalaya’s. Image by Lauren Chartier.

Fitness

We both started our own fitness regimes to build up the cardio and muscle strength required to take on the trek. This included plenty of running 3-4 times a week, gradually increasing our distance (or you can be like Lauren, who trained to run and complete a marathon), weights (especially leg strengthening), and hiking. As we both reside in Adelaide, we are blessed to have many hiking trails so nearby in the Adelaide Hills.

That said, if you don’t live near hiking trails you can still adapt to make the most of what you have. One of the blogs I read was by a guy who prepared for his trip to Base Camp while living in Brooklyn. He used the stairs at his workplace to get used to uphill trekking, and even parts of Central Park for his training. Sometimes you just have to be creative!

Although many blogs stated you do not need to be at an extreme level of fitness, people found the trek much more enjoyable after building their fitness levels prior to setting off.

Preparing for the Altitude

The only difficult area for which to prepare for is the altitude. Given Adelaide is at sea-level, we were restricted. There are altitude masks you can buy which simulate high altitude breathing – but they’re pricey, so we decided they weren’t necessary.

We felt that with proper medication, spending time acclimatising on the trek, and by taking it slowly – we’d be okay.

Hiking in your local area is a great way to prepare for the trek to Base Camp. Here’s Tom hiking in the Adelaide Hills. Image by Lauren Chartier.

Packing

The next thing we needed was to make sure we had the right gear and clothing. Trekking around some of the highest altitudes on earth means that you should ensure the gear you take is reliable. A trip to Snowys’ Outdoors sorted us out. We both bought ‘Asolo Fugitive GTX’ boots and could tell straight away that they were worth every cent.

Like all boots, it’s essential to wear them in before you head off. In fact, it’s recommended to wear trek boots for at least 3 months prior to your trip. However, the Fugitive’s were not only incredibly supportive right from the start, but extremely comfortable to wear – especially while trekking over rough terrain.

The other reason we needed to make sure we had the right gear was because we were heading to Base Camp in December (the more ideal times to tackle Base Camp are from April to May and September to November). As it was going to be colder in the Himalayas, we both made sure we had warm but breathable clothing for the trek.

Here’s an idea of what to add to your checklist when taking on Mt Everest Base Camp.

Our Pack List for Base Camp:

Travel Documents

Passport (plus copies), travel insurance, cash or credit card, and your itinerary.

Equipment

A trekking pack, day pack, 3L water pack or water bottle, 0 to -15 sleeping bag, lightweight towel, hiking poles, and headlamp.

Footwear

Hiking boots, spare boot laces, casual shoes, and hiking socks.

Clothing

A down or fleece jacket, wind and waterproof jacket and pants, upper and lower thermals, t-shirts, gloves, and underwear.

Sun Protection

A bucket hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, and lip balm.

Snacks

Snack food (for example: chocolate and energy food).

Toiletries

Hand sanitising lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, mini shampoo, soap, roll-on deodorant, wet wipes, moisturiser, toilet paper, and a mirror.

General

Phone and charger, plug adapter, batteries, binoculars, reading or writing material, swiss army knife, scarf, ear plugs, colouring books, and pencils.

First-Aid Kit

Aspirin, Band-Aids, Imodium (for mild cases of diarrhea), rehydration powder, chlorine dioxide (water purification tablets), Diamox (For altitude sickness).

So – after gathering all the gear and persisting with our training, the time had finally come to set off to Nepal!

For some, making it to the base of the world’s highest mountain is a pretty big feat. But is the preparation really that much different from other difficult treks? Leave your thoughts below.

Exploring Kathmandu

With our bags packed and our bodies prepared, we reached our first destination – Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal. It’s all the hectic mayhem that you would expect in a major Asian city… but there is just something about it. Whether it’s the surrounding mountains of the Kathmandu valley in the distance, the occasional street cow, or the number of beautiful stupas (temples) – the city has a relaxed energy.

Kathmandu: a sprawling city that excites the senses!

Arriving at Kathmandu-Tribhuvan Airport

On arrival at Kathmandu-Tribhuvan airport, we were greeted with an initial rush to get your visa sorted ($40 USD for 30 days), exchange money, and collect your bags. As we walked out of the doors and enter Kathmandu, all we could hear was “Taxi!”. Make sure you pre-arrange a price to your destination whenever hiring a taxi in Nepal; you might get overcharged significantly if you don’t do this, as they’re not metered.  A taxi from Kathmandu-Tribhuvan airport to Thamel (the main tourist area), should cost around 500-600 Nepalese Rupees ($4-5 USD).

Thamel

Thamel is a hub filled with travellers, shopping, restaurants, bars, and cafes – so there is nothing you can’t find. If you need more gear for trekking, a sleeping bag, or a down jacket, these can easily be hired or purchased at any of The North Face or trekking stores.

The streets are small, very colourful, and full of both locals and foreigners. Not many of these streets are straight, and they all look similar, so it’s a wonderful place to get lost! The shopping is great and lots of fun, especially when you haggle with the charismatic shopkeepers for a bargain!

This is a typical Kathmandu Street view. It can be a culture shock to some.

What to Eat in Thamel

There is an abundance of food options available in Thamel, from traditional Nepalese to Western, Middle-Eastern, and bakeries. I can highly recommend OR2K on Mandala Street (the only street without cars) for every cuisine under the sun and a very relaxed atmosphere. The Himalayan Java and Blueberry Kitchen does a great breakfast, and the Western Tandoori and Naan House do ripping Indian-style curries.

Don’t let the exterior of the Tandoori House put you off – it may look like quite the simple place, but it is always full of travellers and the food is incredible. It’s also insanely cheap (roughly $1 USD for a vegetarian curry). I’d recommend trying the traditional Nepali dish Dal Baht which is available at every restaurant. Momo, which are steamed or fried Nepali dumplings, are another must-try.

Kathmandu offers a new discovery around every corner.

What to See and Do in Kathmandu

Kathmandu has many sights that are a walk or a short taxi ride away from Thamel. The Garden of Dreams is a sanctuary away from the busy main street, and a great place to sit and read on the lawns. There are two main Buddhist Stupas, Boudha Stupa (Boudhanath) and Swayambhunath (monkey temple). Both are worth a visit.

There’s a fantastic view of the Kathmandu Valley from Swayambhunath, and you can get up close and personal with the monkeys. Remember to walk clockwise around the stupas, especially if you turn the prayer wheels, as this will give you good luck. Pashupatinath Temple is the main Hindu temple of Kathmandu, located on the banks of the Bagmati River. It’s a beautiful and very interesting place to wander – you may even catch a cremation ceremony on the riverbank.

For the uninitiated traveller, Kathmandu can rattle the senses. However, an open-minded approach will reveal a charming city with a crazily wonderful personality that deserves a few days for exploring. The next stage of our trip takes us on a flight to Lukla, landing at one of the most dangerous airports in the world before setting off on foot towards Namche Bazaar!

Have you immersed yourself in the sights, sounds and smells of Kathmandu? Tell us your story in the comments section below.

Lukla to Namche Bazaar

The alarm goes off in our room – it’s 4am, and time to leave Kathmandu. As we head towards the airport, my mind was racing with thoughts.

For the past 10 months, I had been thinking of this moment; the flight ahead to Lukla. Although the Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla is known as the most dangerous airport in the world, I had been told the journey is one of the most scenically beautiful flights you can experience.

It turns out that what I was told was spot on! After a few nervous moments assessing the plane that would take us there, I said to myself, ‘you need to enjoy every moment of this flight’.

The next destination on our journey to Mt Everest Base Camp: the stunning Namche Bazaar. 

Touching Down in Lukla

Once we got up in the air, all my concerns were wiped away; I was completely lost in awe of the views, and our first glimpse of the Himalayas. I think that’s because I was sitting on the left-hand side of the plane, which gave me the best view on the way in.

As we came into land, our guide Gelu pointed out where the plane had to land. It took me a while to actually see it… but when I did, the concerns I had about landing flooded back! That said, as we came into approach and eventually touched down, it was ultimately one of the smoothest landings I’ve ever experienced (and I have flown a lot)! Relieved we had arrived safely in Lukla, I managed to ask the pilots how often they operated the flight. They said six to seven times a day, so could basically do it with their eyes closed! Why was I so concerned?

Relieved we had arrived safely in Lukla, I managed to ask the pilots how often they did the flight. They said they did it six to seven times a day, and could basically do it with their eyes closed! Why was I so concerned?

Beginning the Trek to Base Camp

After gathering our bags and enjoying a quick breakfast, it was finally time to begin our trek to Everest Base Camp. Our first destination was the small village of Phakding. It was only about a three to four-hour trek away, and we would descend down around 200m from Lukla. Surrounded by beautiful alpine landscapes with the Dudh Koshi River rushing beside us, it was the perfect way to start our trek.

It ended up being quite an easy walk to Phakding, as there were no steep ascents. Lukla is around 2,860m above sea level, so the altitude didn’t cause any problems with my breathing. This meant I could enjoy the walk more.

Kids at the local school in Phakding getting stuck into a game of soccer.

Gelu took us to a nearby school where the kids were out playing soccer. It’s funny, no matter where you go in the world, I’ve found we’re all unified by the game of soccer. It didn’t matter that we couldn’t communicate with the kids, the enjoyment of playing was purely universal. Before we knew it, play time was over and the kids had to go back to class. They were learning how to count in English. We were lucky enough to be invited in to have a listen. One child called (shouted) out the number and the rest of the class would repeat it. They were so good, they managed to count to 100!

The First Night in Phakding

Our first night in our tea house at Phakding was pleasant – although, as expected in a Himalayan December, it was cold! We all got a good night’s sleep though. As it turns out, you need a good night’s rest before the second day; we were in for a seven to eight hour day of trekking as we made our way to Namche Bazaar (or simply named Namche)!

Trekking to Namche Bazaar

The trek itself was unbelievable. The alpine scenery continued, however it became lusher, denser, and more majestic the further we trekked. As we came up to our first swing bridge crossings and started seeing more donkey packs carrying large amounts of goods up and down the mountain, we really felt we were on our way.

On a side note, whenever a pack of transporting animals comes your way, make sure you always move to the mountain side. One nudge could send you plummeting down the slope!

A swing bridge crossing over the Dudh Koshi River on the trek up to Namche Bazaar. 

The day was thoroughly enjoyable, however the final ascent up to Namche was the first big challenge of our trek. All in all, it took us around 1 ½ to 2 hours of constant uphill trekking to reach Namche. This was made all the more challenging with the effects of altitude kicking in. The key was to go slow and find our own pace as we gradually made our way up.

The First Glimpse of the Peak

It was tough but we got a boost in our step just before reaching Namche: our first glimpse of Mount Everest and its peak. That was an incredibly special moment to finally see the roof of the world right there in person. It took my breath away.

Eventually, we made it to Namche feeling fairly worn out but excited to see what the town had to offer. We were in for a couple of nights for rest and acclimatisation, before we took the next step onto Lobuche – then the big one, Base Camp! 

The journey to the gateway of Everest is a long and at times risky route. To what lengths would you go to reach your dream destination? Leave your thoughts in the comments below. 

Namche Bazaar to Lobuche

We spent two nights in Namche Bazaar at an altitude of 3440m for acclimatisation and rest. The village of Namche has a population of around 1,700 and is the main trading centre for the Khumbu region.

The steep steps throughout the village soon take your breath away, which makes for good acclimatisation exercise. There are also a number of shops in which you can buy pretty much anything you may have forgotten.

The Himalayan Java coffee satisfies caffeine cravings, the chocolate brownies are fantastic, and there is even an Irish pub and an ATM (which unfortunately does not accept Mastercard).

The First Acclimatisation Trek

The next morning we went for our first acclimatisation trek, entailing 3-4 hours of climbing to roughly 4000m. The steep climb out of Namche soon takes your breath away (it was quite humorous). However, over the next few days, we walked up and down these stairs so often that each time became easier.

About 10 minutes out of Namche is the Sherpa Culture Museum and Tenzing Norgay Sherpas memorial statue, both situated in front of a stunning Mt. Everest backdrop.

The Tenzing Norgay Sherpa memorial statue near Namche Bazaar

Leaving Namche

On our fifth day, we left Namche, starting with an initial climb out of the village before reaching mostly flat ground along the main track. Aside from this track, we came across an elderly man raising money to build a better trail to base camp. The government does not fund this work so he sits on the side of the track all day every day with his wife and a donation box. Trekkers are encouraged to sign the registry book and provide a donation, even a hundred rupees is appreciated (about $1.95 AUD*).

*February 2017

The Village of Tengboche

Soon we were heading down into the valley and walking alongside the glacial river with an amazing view of Mount Ama Dablam. After descending for two hours, we stopped for lunch before ascending to 3860m at the village of Tengboche. Situated on a ridge, Tengboche has a stunning view of Mt Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and is home to the well-known Tengboche Monastery, first constructed in 1915. We stayed here for one night in a large teahouse and experienced the best star-gazing of my life.

Rocky landscapes and thin air, the environment becomes harsh and bare at altitude. 

Arriving at Dingboche

The following day we climbed above the tree-line to a small village called Dingboche, we stayed here at an altitude of 4300m for two nights of acclimatisation in the Everest Resort Guest House. Now that we were out of the valleys, everything was rockier, there was less greenery, and the air was thinner. The teahouse in Dingboche is decorated with flags from all over the world, with a warming fireplace and a lovely dining room featuring cushion-lined windows that you can sit on to soak up the warm afternoon sun. We were joined by other trekkers, and it was nice to share plans and stories so far.

Acclimatising in Dingboche

We had the choice of two hikes for our acclimatisation day in Dingboche, one short and one long which we chose dependent on how we were feeling. As I felt pretty good I took the longer option: an 800m climb on a steep zig-zag track from the village to an altitude of 5100m. At this height, we couldn’t ignore the shortness of breath. Even after the first few steps, our lungs were heaving and hearts pumping, it was just a matter of one foot in front of the other. Although challenging, it was a very enjoyable and satisfying climb.

The last 200m ascent was the hardest, but we eventually reached the top where we were greeted by a pole covered in prayer flags. For me, this was the most satisfying moment of the trek so far; it had taken almost three hours to reach the top, and it was spectacular! We could see the valleys behind us and frozen glacial lakes among the mountains.

It was stunning and a perfect spot to enjoy a well-earnt Snickers before descending for another hour back down to Dingboche – just in time for lunch. We then enjoyed the rest of the afternoon in the tea houses as a group, along with our Sherpas. We were reading, writing, playing cards, and just relaxing.

A typical teahouse scene.

En Route to Lobuche: the Last Stop Before Base Camp

The next morning, we were ready at 8am, leaving Dingboche en-route to Lobuche. We enjoyed mostly flat ground in the morning, walking along a ridge that took us to Dughla where we stopped for lunch. Then, the uphill began again – with a rocky ascent for an hour, before reaching a high point where there were memorials for the Sherpas and climbers who had lost their lives on Everest.

We appreciated the time spent reading their stories – in particular, Scott Fischer from the famous 1996 Everest disaster, and the incredible story of Babu Chiri Sherpa who summited Everest over 10 times (twice in 2 weeks) and held the record of reaching the summit in 16 hours).

It was just over an hour from here to Lobuche at an altitude of 4910m, right near the Khumbu glacier and the two Lobuche mountain peaks. As the sun was setting, the orange light was hitting the ice on the mountains. A spectacular view.

It was about -10 degrees overnight, but the fire in the dining room kept us all warm. Excitement was setting in too, as tomorrow we would reach Everest Base Camp! Following a generous helping of Dal Baht, it was off to bed to rest our bodies in preparation for the day ahead.

Do you have experience in trekking at altitude? Tell us your tips and tricks for preparing your body for an oxygen-depleted environment.

Reaching Base Camp

The day of days had finally arrived! Today we would finally make the last push to get to Everest Base Camp. It was around 6am and dark when we left our tea house in Lobuche, which meant the trail was hard to see. We had a little mishap on the ice, but as visibility got better we were able to get stuck into the trek.

Altitude and Fatigue

By this stage the altitude and general fatigue was really setting in. The trekking itself was not too challenging, as it was a gentle ascent from Lobuche to our morning stop off in Gorak Shep. Once the sun rose and we could clearly see what was ahead of us, a rush of adrenaline ran through me as I knew that each step would take us closer to our final goal.

Arriving at Gorak Shep

We arrived in Gorak Shep a few hours after leaving Lobuche. Gorak Shep is the last village before Base Camp. It was nice to get there and have some breakfast so we could re-energise before setting off for Base Camp. However, upon arrival, we were met with three helicopters touching down in the village within the first hour of us being there. One of them was for supplies, but the other two were there to take people who had severe altitude sickness back down the mountain.

The sight of people being air-lifted down reminded us of the harsh reality of the place we were in, and just how careful and in-tune with our bodies we had to be. As much as reaching Base Camp meant to me, I told myself that if anything started to feel wrong, that I would put my health first.

Resting up and enjoying the view just before we reached the village of Gorak Shep, Nepal. Image by Tom Baxter. 

After the helicopters had flown back down the mountain and we’d had an hour rest, we set off to make the last leg of the journey. I was filled with mixed emotions about the final part. I was extremely happy to finally be reaching Base Camp, yet sad that this was almost the end of our expedition and that we’d be heading back down later that day.

Reaching Base Camp

However, after a few dicey leaps over boulders and rocks for an hour or so, we gradually made our way up alongside the Khumbu Glacier. We then came around a little bend and… there it was! Prayer flags draped all around it, handwritten notes on rocks, and a little shrine that said:

‘Congratulations on reaching Everest Base Camp – 5364m.’

I tunnel-visioned in on it, made the most of each step I took and reached out to touch the sign. We had made it!

Success! The moment we reached Mt. Everest Base Camp!

The Feeling of Reaching Your Goal…

It was an exhilarating feeling being there and knowing that after months of preparing, pondering, and playing out how the trip would go in my mind, we had made it safe and sound. We enjoyed the moment with some rum and hot chocolate, and just sat there soaking it all in. It had truly been a remarkable journey. From that early morning start back in Kathmandu, to the plane ride into Lukla and everything else we had seen and experienced on the trek to base camp – I couldn’t have hoped for a more enthralling life experience.

As Gelu said it was time to head back to Gorak Shep, the only thing left to do was take one more look up towards Everest and think that maybe, just one day… I might see the world from its peak.

Reflecting on the Journey to Base Camp

Twelve days of trekking in the Khumbu Region of the Nepalese Himalayas all the way from Lukla to Everest Base Camp and back was an absolute dream come true. For anyone who has an adventurous spirit, you need to do this trek. Living it day in, day out, makes you realise that it’s as famous as it is for a reason. It’s spectacular!

The Touring Company

We did the trek in an organised group tour run by G Adventures. I recommend this type of travel as it is a great way to make friends. It also gives you peace of mind that everything will run as smoothly as possible.

Mental and Physical Challenges

Everest Base Camp is an achievable trek. However, you need to be physically fit and healthy leading up to departure, and have a positive and enthusiastic mind: ready for anything and everything along your journey! For me, preparation before the trip consisted of running, walking (especially on an incline), running up and down stairs, and swimming laps.

Get Comfortable with Your Gear

It is also super important that you are aware and comfortable with all your gear. During training, wear your gear like you are trekking up to Everest Base Camp. Wear your boots in and test how your socks feel. Take note whether you have a tendency to get blisters in certain spots and therefore need to bandage them. Or, if you have pants that zip-off into shorts, check if the zip is comfortable pressing against your knee when you lift your legs up. Getting used to your gear will help you enjoy your trek a lot more.

Dealing with Altitude Sickness

Altitude, on the other hand, is something that is a lot more difficult to prepare for. It affects everyone differently, so be aware of it. Do a bit of reading up on it, so you can recognise any sickness in yourself and other people.

My Experience in Nepal

I’ve travelled to Nepal twice now, and both times have been in late November/December. I’ve had a phenomenal time. This is right at the end of peak season (September-November), so there are less trekkers. It’s also usually quite clear, so you have great visibility of the mountains. However, it is winter – so it can be quite cold at night. It dropped to -12 degrees at Gorak Shep, but during the day the sun is usually out – so you can easily get by with a t-shirt and even shorts.

The journey to Base Camp is an incredible and worthwhile experience for the fearless adventurer. 

It’s amazing to experience travelling through the villages in this incredibly remote area of the world, where walking is the only form of transportation and trade. Nepali people must be among the happiest and kindest people on Earth. Their cheeky and friendly nature made it even easier to fall in love with the country.

The scenery is so diverse and incredible on this trek; you see everything from valleys, green crops, and glacial rivers, to mountains, open plains, and icefalls. There wasn’t a day where you couldn’t look around and not lose your breath.

I hope everyone will one day have the opportunity to travel to Nepal and trek through the many beautiful regions, so they can fall in love with the place as I certainly have.

Phew! What a journey, the trip from Adelaide to Everest is as epic as they come – but would you take on this once-in-a-lifetime trek? Sound off in the comments below. 

This blog is a consolidation of work by both Tom Baxter and his travel partner Lauren Chartier.